- Days 29-32
- This section: 97 km
- Total: 897 km
Oh, it was hard to slip back into our trail runners after two nights in a soft bed, hard to leave Isobel’s warm living room. You have no idea how good you have it, spending every night in a warm bed!
But there was no time to mourn, because shortly after Hamilton one of the top 10 tracks of the Te Araroa begins. The New Zealand you picture in your head: grassy hills, hundreds of sweet sheep and, lucky for us, brilliant sunshine.
So we simply stayed there.
Though not alone for long. By the end of the day there were ten tents standing on the Kapamahunga Walkway.
The next day continued just as idyllically, and thanks to so many photo stops we took a very long time crossing the farmland.
Our friend and helper when crossing farmland
The real challenge of the day, though, was getting over the Pirongia summit (959 m) – our highest mountain so far! Since it consists entirely of rainforest, however, it did not really feel like a mountain.
And another first: our hut pass came into use for the first time, which lets you sleep in the huts of the Department of Conservation (DOC). Shortly after the summit we headed for Pahautea Hut, which offers 20 bunks (with mattresses, even!) and a large communal room.
Even though it was only 3 pm, we decided to stay and enjoy the sunny afternoon high above the rainforest. With 16 people in total we were the largest TA group in one place we have come across so far. There were even a few unfamiliar faces among them!
The descent the next morning outdid everything we have experienced so far: at times we were knee-deep in mud… We rather doubt that this descent still belongs among the top 10 trail stretches, or whether it was only the idyllic sheep pasture that made the ranking.
Happily we were through the Hihikiwi Forest (yes, that really is its name!) in two hours, so despite the extreme mud levels it did not make it to number 1 on our “worst trail stretches” list (still Ratea Forest from days 5/6).
The rest of the route was supposed to pass through lovely forest and pasture landscapes. Which was largely true.
In the early evening we ran into Erin and Becky, who were busy sizing up all the remaining camping options. Unsettled by a “No Camping” sign that was supposed to apply to the entire rest of the way to Waitomo (19 km), Erin asked a farmer whether he knew of anywhere. His suggestion: “Why not sleep in my woolshed!” No sooner said than done, we jumped onto his tractor and rode there with him. The second tractor, by the way, was driven by his 9-year-old son, to whom Jan entrusted his life.
The next morning we set off early for Waitomo and were treated to this misty morning mood.
Waitomo is known for its limestone caves, home to thousands of glow-worms. We booked a small tour and floated through the cave by boat in complete darkness, lit, according to the tour operator, by 30,000 glow-worms. Another kind of trail magic. Sadly we were not allowed to take pictures during the boat ride, so as not to destroy that magical moment. Which is why there is only this one.
